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Category
Benefits

Rating

Ingredient

Best

Ascorbic Acid Sample

Form of vitamin C that is a powerful antioxidant. It can improve the appearance of signs of aging and help brighten an uneven skin tone. Vitamin C boosts the skin’s collagen production, fades dark spots & pigmentation. If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection. when combined with other antioxidants its photoprotection ability is multiplied

Category
Antioxidant, pH Adjuster

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Fades Dark Spots, Even Skin Tone

Pairing
Other antioxidants like Ferulic Acid, Vitamin E and Resveratrol. Also works well with sunscreen filters.

Avoid
Anything with a high pH & strong actives: retinols, AHA/BHA/PHAs, Niacinamide, etc

Good

Water (Aqua)

Water (Aqua) is the most widely used cosmetic ingredient, typically appearing first in skincare product ingredient lists. Only a 10% concentration is needed in the skin’s outer layers for softness and pliability. Studies show no significant difference in moisture levels between dry and oily skin.

Category
Solvent

Benefits
Hydration

Best

Glycerin

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a highly effective humectant found naturally in the skin. Renowned for its hydration and anti-aging benefits, it helps skin retain moisture, restores balance, and maintains a healthy look and feel. Commonly used in moisturizers, typically at concentrations of 5% or less, higher amounts (10% or more) are used for skin healing. Glycerin supports a healthy skin barrier, protects against irritation, and enhances the texture of skincare products. Recognized for its versatility and efficacy, glycerin is a cornerstone in modern skincare formulations.

Category
Humectant, Texture Enhancer, Solvent

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid, panthenol, urea, ceramides, niacinamide, or allantoin for enhanced hydration and moisturization benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Glycerin with incompatible surfactants (e.g., strong anionic surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate), harsh acids, strong oxidizing agents, and certain preservatives that may compromise its stability or efficacy.

Good

Butylene Glycol

Butylene glycol, also known as butane-1,3-diol, is a widely used cosmetic ingredient. It functions as a humectant, texture enhancer, solvent, and penetration booster. This clear, viscous liquid increases skin's water content, enhancing hydration and improving texture. Additionally, it helps stabilize formulas and ensures better absorption of other ingredients. Safe and approved by regulatory bodies, butylene glycol is also used as a food additive.

Category
Humectant, Texture Enhancer

Benefits
Hydration

Good

Betaine

Betaine is a hydrating humectant, either plant-derived or synthetic, that also naturally occurs in the skin and body. Known as an osmolyte, it helps balance skin's hydration by adapting to moisture changes. Betaine is gentle, often used in cleansers to mitigate irritation and also conditions hair. Emerging research suggests it may help correct uneven skin tone. Recognized for its safety, betaine enhances formulations by providing moisture and protecting skin proteins.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid and glycerin to enhance moisture retention and skin hydration. It can be used with niacinamide to improve uneven skin tone. Additionally, for individuals with sensitive and irritated skin, combining betaine with panthenol provides soothing benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh sulfates, strong acids, certain preservatives (like formaldehyde releasers), incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, certain actives (like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids), and excessive fragrance oils when formulating with betaine

Good

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, akin to glyceryl stearate, acts as an emulsifier and emollient, blending water and oil while softening the skin. Its unique feature is the addition of a citric acid molecule, forming a diacylglycerol, enhancing its emulsifying properties. This plant-derived or synthetic ingredient, evaluated for safety, is commonly found in skincare formulations for its efficacy in moisturizers and lotions, offering both stability and skin conditioning benefits.

Category
Emollient, Emulsifier, Cleansing Agent

Benefits
Hydration

Good

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, whether plant-derived or synthetic, combines lauric acid with polyglycerin-10 to create a skin-friendly emulsifier and gentle cleansing agent. It maintains skin softness without drying or tightening and is known for its eye-friendly formulation. Additionally, it acts as a co-emulsifier and solubilizer, facilitating the blending of oily components into water-based products.

Category
Cleansing Agent, Emulsifier

Benefits
Polymer

Good

Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a crucial lipid naturally present in the skin's outer layer, comprising about 25% of the lipid matrix between skin cells. Alongside ceramides and fatty acids, it supports a healthy skin barrier and moisture retention. Additionally, cholesterol acts as an emollient and stabilizer, enhancing skin health and hydration.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Ceramides, fatty acids (like stearic acid), glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalane, niacinamide, peptides, and phospholipids to enhance skin barrier repair, hydration, and overall skin health.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (like SLS), strong acids (like glycolic acid), high concentrations of alcohol, incompatible emulsifiers, and oxidizing agents (like hydrogen peroxide) to maintain stability and efficacy.

Best

Allantoin

Allantoin is a common soothing ingredient found in the roots and leaves of the comfrey plant, though it is usually produced synthetically for purity. Known for its skin-softening and protecting properties, it also promotes wound healing. Allantoin occurs naturally in most organisms and can be safely used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 2%. It helps soothe and moisturize the skin, making it particularly beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin. Additionally, allantoin can mitigate skin reactions to more potent active ingredients, enhancing the overall efficacy of skincare formulations.

Category
Plant Extracts

Benefits
Soothing

Pair with
Humectants (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid), emollients (like shea butter and squalane), antioxidants (like vitamin E and niacinamide), mild surfactants (like coco glucoside), and botanical extracts (like aloe vera).

Avoid with
Strong acids (like glycolic or salicylic acid), high concentrations of alcohol, harsh surfactants (like SLS), strong oxidizers, and potent retinoids to prevent irritation and instability.

Good

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate, a salt of citric acid derived from citrus, is used in skincare to control product pH levels. It also neutralizes metal ions, enhancing product stability and longevity. With antioxidant and mild preservative properties, it serves as a chelating agent, preventing metals in water from affecting other ingredients. Recognized as safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, sodium citrate is used in concentrations up to 12%. Beyond skincare, it's a common food additive and is used in medical applications to prevent blood clotting during storage.

Category
pH Adjuster, Chelating Agent, Antioxidant, Preservative

Benefits
pH Control

Best

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, derived from coconut oil and glycerin, is a versatile emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient. This clear, non-viscous liquid helps skin resist moisture loss and improves the spreadability of products. It can also function as a thickener and penetration enhancer. Known for being gentle and non-greasy, it's well-tolerated by all skin types. Despite misconceptions, it's not comedogenic. Popular in cosmetic formulations, it provides a smooth, light texture, enhancing the overall feel and effectiveness of skincare products. Safety assessments have confirmed its safe use in concentrations up to 50%

Category
Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Jojoba oil, squalane, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin E, shea butter, aloe vera, chamomile extract, and phenoxyethanol for enhanced moisturization, soothing, and stability in formulations.

Avoid with
Highly alkaline ingredients like sodium hydroxide, strong oxidizing agents, high concentrations of synthetic fragrances, and incompatible emulsifiers like polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivatives.

Good

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed oil, derived from the native Australian macadamia nut, is a golden yellow oil rich in emollient and nourishing fatty acids. It contains 50-67% oleic acid, making it highly emollient and ideal for dry skin, though less suitable for acne-prone skin. Unique to this oil is its high content of palmitoleic acid (12-25%), which imparts a "cushiony" feel. Easily absorbed, macadamia oil leaves the skin soft and supple, enhancing its overall texture and hydration.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), emollients (e.g., shea butter), humectants (e.g., glycerin), antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E), and botanical extracts (e.g., chamomile) for nourishing skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Comedogenic ingredients like coconut oil or cocoa butter, potentially irritating essential oils, high concentrations of fragrance, and harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).

Best

Isopentyldiol

Isopentyldiol is a water-soluble, colorless, odorless humectant that smooths skin with a dry, non-tacky feel. It offers both instant and long-lasting moisturizing effects and works well with sorbitol. Used as a solvent in cosmetic solutions, it adds hydration without a sticky residue. This synthetic ingredient is found in various beauty products, including facial masks, serums, makeup remover wipes, foundations, and hair care. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel approved its safety in 2018 after assessing its use in up to 15% concentration in personal care products.

Category
Solvent, Humectant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Good

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is a vegetable-based, PEG-free emulsifier that helps blend water and oil smoothly. Created by combining ten glycerin molecules with stearic acid, it forms a molecule that is both water- and oil-loving, ensuring stable and elegant emulsions. Besides its primary role, it provides moisturizing and softening benefits for skin and hair. This ester of stearic acid with a glycerin polymer is synthetically derived and functions as a skin-softening emollient and cleansing agent. Recognized for its safety, it is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

Category
Cleansing Agent, Emulsifier, Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Good

Methylpropanediol

Methylpropanediol is a versatile glycol with excellent solvent and antimicrobial properties, often used as a replacement for propylene or butylene glycol. It enhances ingredient absorption, supports preservative blends, and provides hydration without stickiness. Known technically as 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, it leaves a smooth, dewy finish on the skin. This clear, colorless liquid is recognized for its safety and efficacy in cosmetics, boosting the effectiveness of other ingredients and prolonging fragrance intensity. Its hydrating properties and multifunctionality make it a valuable ingredient in skincare formulations.

Category
Solvent, Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Best

Squalane

Squalane is a popular emollient known for its hydration and anti-aging benefits. Chemically stable, this hydrocarbon mimics the skin's natural sebum, ensuring high compatibility with all skin types, including acne-prone and sensitive skin. Sourced from plants like olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils, it provides a lightweight, non-greasy feel while preventing moisture loss and enhancing skin suppleness. As an antioxidant, squalane protects against lipid peroxidation, potentially reducing acne. Its biocompatibility and stability make it a reliable and effective ingredient in skincare formulations.

Category
Emollient, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and shea butter, as well as antioxidants such as vitamin E or green tea extract for enhanced hydration and skin protection.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants, strong acids, certain preservatives (like formaldehyde releasers), incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, certain actives (like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids), and excessive fragrance oils.

Best

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus ferment, rated highly in the skincare realm, is a non-living probiotic derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus. It offers notable benefits for skin hydration and soothing. Research shows it strengthens skin defenses and supports a healthy microbiome, potentially alleviating common skin conditions. Estee Lauder's studies highlight its DNA repair, anti-microbial, and anti-inflammatory properties, beneficial for acne and rosacea. Known as Leucidal Liquid SF, it also acts as a natural preservative. Though not extensively proven, it shows great promise, especially for sensitive skin.

Category
Prebiotic/Probiotic/Postbiotic

Benefits
Hydration, Soothing

Pair with
Probiotic-friendly ingredients like prebiotics (e.g., inulin, fructooligosaccharides), soothing botanical extracts (e.g., CICA, chamomile, aloe vera), and gentle emollients (e.g., shea butter, jojoba oil).

Avoid with
Ingredients such as strong acids, harsh preservatives (like parabens), high concentrations of alcohol, essential oils, and other antimicrobial agents to maintain probiotic efficacy.

Best

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl hexapeptide-8, also known as Argireline, is a synthetic peptide celebrated for its anti-aging benefits. While it's marketed as a "Botox in a jar" due to its ability to target expression lines, it doesn't replace injectable procedures like Botox. Research indicates it can decrease wrinkles depth and improve skin moisturization, but it's not a collagen builder or a structural aging preventer like vitamin C or retinol. Its water-binding and skin-restoring properties contribute to a more youthful appearance, making it a popular choice for those seeking quick fixes in their skincare routines.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, vitamin C, and argireline for enhanced anti-aging benefits, improved skin texture, and increased collagen production.

Avoid with
Incompatible peptides, strong acids, harsh surfactants, high concentrations of alcohol, and certain preservatives like formaldehyde releasers to prevent potential formulation issues or skin sensitivities.

Best

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a versatile ingredient known for its role as a dispersing agent, skin-conditioning emollient, and emulsifier in skincare products. It can be derived from various sources, including plants and animals like egg yolk. Its function extends to enhancing the penetration of other skincare ingredients, contributing to greater efficacy. Typically appearing as a white to beige-gray powder, its safety has been established up to concentrations of 15%, making it a valued component in formulations aimed at providing hydration and improving skin texture.

Category
Emollient, Emulsifier, Suspending/Dispersing Agent

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Emollients like squalane, shea butter, or jojoba oil, humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants like vitamin E for effective skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Ingredients such as strong acids, highly alkaline substances, harsh surfactants, and incompatible emulsifiers to prevent formulation issues or potential skin sensitivities.

Good

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylyl glycol serves as a versatile ingredient in skincare, acting as a skin and hair conditioning agent with humectant properties. It can be derived from natural sources like coconut or synthesized. Beyond its conditioning benefits, caprylyl glycol contributes to formula preservation and stability, often enhancing the effectiveness of other preservatives like phenoxyethanol. Its multifunctional nature extends to influencing viscosity and providing antibacterial properties. Recognized as safe in cosmetics, it's commonly used in concentrations ranging from 0.00003% to 5%, contributing to both product performance and safety.

Category
Preservative, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Preservatives like phenoxyethanol, emollients like glycerin, humectants like hyaluronic acid, antioxidants like vitamin E, and antimicrobials like tea tree oil in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Incompatible emulsifiers, strong acids, certain preservatives (like parabens), highly alkaline ingredients, certain actives (like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids), and excessive fragrance oils.

Best

Resveratrol

Resveratrol, a potent antioxidant found in red grapes, wine, nuts, and fruits like blueberries, offers diverse benefits. It protects skin, inhibits discolorations, supports collagen, and calms redness. Studies show it can slow photoaging and benefit menopause-related skin issues. Its concentrations in skincare vary but are generally effective even at low levels, making it a valuable addition to skincare routines for its antioxidant and anti-aging properties.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Dark Spot Fading, Soothing

Pair with
Vitamin C or E, soothing agents like aloe vera or chamomile, hydrators like hyaluronic acid, and peptides for anti-aging synergy in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Ingredients like strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), incompatible emulsifiers, and certain preservatives (e.g., benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol) for formulation stability and efficacy.

Best

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine, a lipid naturally occurring in the skin's upper layers, is a vital component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), aiding in hydration and anti-aging. It reinforces the skin's barrier, promoting a youthful appearance and soothing effects, reducing redness and sensitivity. Safe for cosmetics, it's effective even in low concentrations, with emerging research highlighting its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it promising for acne-prone skin care formulations.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Hydration

Pair with
Ceramides, cholesterol, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides for enhanced skin barrier repair, hydration, and anti-aging benefits. Avoid harsh exfoliants and incompatible surfactants for optimal efficacy.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), certain preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers), incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, and excessive fragrance oils.

Best

Glycolipids

Glycolipids are compounds blending sugars (monosaccharides) and lipids (fats) through covalent bonds. These mixed substances are important components found in cell membranes, contributing to structural integrity and cell communication.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., coco glucoside, decyl glucoside), hydrating humectants (e.g., hyaluronic acid, glycerin), nourishing emollients (e.g., shea butter, squalane), soothing botanical extracts, and effective preservatives.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), strong acids, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, certain actives (like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids), and excessive fragrance oils.

Best

Ceramide NP

Ceramide NP is a crucial element found naturally in the skin's outer layers (stratum corneum), aiding in hydration and anti-aging efforts. Whether created synthetically or derived from plants, it plays a key role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and retaining moisture. By forming a protective layer, Ceramide NP helps prevent water loss and shields the skin from environmental stressors and irritants. With concentrations considered safe in cosmetics, it's a top-tier emollient for supple, resilient, and hydrated skin.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Hydration

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or panthenol, as well as soothing agents such as aloe vera, centella asiatica, or chamomile extract for enhanced moisturization and skin barrier support.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants, strong acids, high concentrations of essential oils, and certain preservatives (like formaldehyde releasers) to prevent potential formulation issues or skin sensitivities.

Best

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is an emollient plant oil rich in antioxidant polyphenols, skin-protective linoleic acid, and vitamin E. Its light texture makes skin feel smooth without greasiness, and it defends against environmental stressors. This oil is hydrating and aids in anti-aging, making it a beneficial ingredient in skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant,Emollient, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging,Hydration

Pair with
Complementary ingredients like jojoba oil, rosehip seed oil, vitamin E, green tea extract, and hyaluronic acid for enhanced hydration, antioxidant protection, and skin nourishment.

Avoid with
Ingredients like high concentrations of synthetic fragrances, harsh surfactants, strong acids, incompatible emulsifiers, and potentially irritating actives to prevent formulation issues.

Average

Sodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate is a synthetic phosphorus compound used in cosmetics for its wetting, emulsifying, thickening, and cleansing properties. It is supplied as a powder and is considered safe and non-irritating when mixed with water. With buffering properties, it helps maintain the pH balance of products. Sodium phosphate keeps ingredient blends mixed and improves product slip and penetration. Typically used at levels of 0.086% or lower, it is also deemed safe for use in foods.

Category
Emulsifier

Benefits
Cleansing Agent

Best

Ferulic Acid

Ferulic Acid is a potent phenolic antioxidant naturally found in plants such as rice bran and bamboo. It enhances the stability of vitamins C and E, doubling their photoprotective effects. Ferulic acid helps prevent skin discolorations and defends against environmental damage. It is a key ingredient in high-concentration chemical peels used by dermatologists to combat photoaging. As a raw material, it is supplied as a crystalline powder, effective at concentrations of 0.5% or greater, boosting the efficacy of other antioxidants in skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Vitamin C or E, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and botanical extracts such as green tea, chamomile, or licorice for enhanced anti-aging and skin brightening benefits.

Avoid with
Incompatible antioxidants, strong acids, harsh surfactants, high concentrations of vitamin C or E, and certain preservatives (like benzyl alcohol or formaldehyde releasers) to maintain stability and efficacy.

Best

Tocopherol

Tocopherol, a form of Vitamin E, is a key fat-soluble antioxidant that protects skin cells from free radicals and UVB damage. It helps reduce sunburn cells and inhibits photocarcinogenesis. As a non-irritating ingredient, it is easily absorbed by the skin. When combined with Vitamin C, tocopherol offers enhanced photoprotection. Despite its benefits, it is not effective for wound healing and may worsen scars. Tocopherol is available in natural and synthetic forms, with the natural form being more active and better absorbed. In cosmetics, mixed tocopherol or alpha-tocopherol is preferred for optimal results.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Soothing, Even Skin Tone

Pair with
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) for enhanced antioxidant benefits, hyaluronic acid for hydration, niacinamide for brightening, and retinol for anti-aging effects in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Potentially irritating ingredients such as fragrance oils, strong acids like salicylic acid, harsh exfoliants like physical scrubs or peels, synthetic dyes, and high concentrations of alcohol.

Best

Alpha-Arbutin

Alpha-Arbutin is a top-rated skin care ingredient renowned for its ability to fade dark spots, even out skin tone, and provide anti-aging benefits. Derived from the hyperpigmentation-fighting agent hydroquinone, alpha-arbutin is considered more effective than beta-arbutin and kojic acid. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which limits melanin production, thereby reducing skin discoloration. As an antioxidant, it also protects against oxidative stress. Alpha-arbutin can be plant-derived, bio-fermented, or synthetic, and is often used in concentrations of up to 2% in leave-on products for safe and effective results.

Category
Antioxidant,Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Dark Spot Fading, Evens Skin Tone

Pair with
Ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, licorice extract, and peptides for brightening, hydrating, and anti-aging benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Ingredients like hydroquinone, kojic acid, or other strong skin-lightening agents to prevent potential skin irritation or adverse reactions.

Good

Glutathione

Glutathione, a potent antioxidant naturally produced in the body, has gained attention in skincare for its remarkable benefits. Research suggests its topical application can brighten and even out skin tone by inhibiting melanin synthesis, making it effective against hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Furthermore, its antioxidant properties help neutralize free radicals, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and premature aging. Studies also indicate its potential in reducing inflammation and promoting wound healing, enhancing overall skin health. When incorporated into skincare formulations, glutathione offers a promising solution for achieving a radiant and youthful complexion. Research on the topical application of glutathione in skincare is still evolving, and while there is some evidence suggesting its potential benefits, more comprehensive studies are needed to confirm its efficacy definitively.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Dark Spot Fading

Pair with
Ingredients like vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), niacinamide, and licorice extract for enhanced antioxidant and brightening effects in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Hydrogen peroxide, strong acids (e.g., hydrochloric acid), and certain metals (e.g., copper, iron), as these may diminish its antioxidant properties or cause instability.

Best

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a potent and stable derivative of vitamin C, renowned for its anti-aging prowess and ability to even out skin tone while fading dark spots. Its water- and oil-soluble properties make it versatile for various formulations. This compound undergoes a slower conversion to pure vitamin C within the skin, ensuring gradual and tolerable benefits. With an acidic pH range, typically 4–5.5, it thrives in skincare products that aim for optimum stability. Recommended usage levels range from 0.5% to 5%, with higher concentrations being well-tolerated depending on skin sensitivity.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Dark Spot Fading

Pair with
Antioxidants (like vitamin E), hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, and gentle exfoliants (like AHAs or BHAs) for enhanced brightening, anti-aging, and skin-rejuvenating benefits.

Avoid with
Incompatible ingredients like strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), and certain preservatives (e.g., DMDM hydantoin) to prevent formulation issues.

Best

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, derived from the prickly pear cactus, is a powerhouse of antioxidants, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and amino acids. These compounds not only soothe and strengthen the skin but also provide replenishing and hydrating benefits. With its non-fragrant and non-irritating nature, this extract is an excellent choice for anti-aging formulations. It helps combat skin damage caused by environmental pollutants and boosts skin elasticity, promoting a healthier and more resilient complexion. Safe and effective, this extract is a valuable addition to skincare products targeting aging concerns.

Category
Antioxidant,Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile extract, or centella asiatica for enhanced calming and anti-inflammatory benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants, strong acids, certain preservatives (like formaldehyde releasers), incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, and excessive fragrance oils.

Good

Polysorbate 60

Polysorbate 60, derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, serves as an effective emulsifier and mild cleansing agent in cosmetics. It aids in blending unlike ingredients, improving foam, and thickening formulations. Notably, it facilitates the penetration of skincare actives like vitamin C into the skin. While generally safe, concentrations exceeding 5% may cause irritation, although studies have shown varied responses. Its versatility and compatibility with water and oil make it a common and beneficial ingredient for creating stable and functional cosmetic products.

Category
Emulsifier

Benefits
Cleansing Agent

Average

Disodium Phosphate

Disodium Phosphate is a common but inconspicuous ingredient, primarily serving as a pH adjuster and rust prevention agent in cosmetic formulations. While odorless itself, it can enhance the scent of other ingredients. As a hygroscopic powder, it absorbs moisture from the air. Despite its behind-the-scenes role, it plays a crucial part in maintaining product stability and safety. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and FDA have recognized it as safe for use in cosmetics and as a food additive. Overall, it contributes to the functionality and longevity of cosmetic products without significant direct benefits to the skin.

Category
pH Adjuster

Benefits
Stabilizer

Best

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of hyaluronic acid, is a stellar ingredient renowned for its hydrating prowess. With the ability to bind up to six liters of water per gram, it helps maintain skin's moisture balance and elasticity. More easily absorbed than hyaluronic acid, it's available in various molecular weights for targeted benefits. Sodium Hyaluronate acts as a humectant, retaining moisture, and as a postbiotic, nurturing the skin's microbiome. While similar to hyaluronic acid, it's often preferred for its stability, affordability, and ease of formulation in skincare products.

Category
Humectant,Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration,Anti-Aging,Soothing

Pair with
Glycerin, panthenol, ceramides, niacinamide, and vitamin E for enhanced hydration, moisture retention, barrier repair, and antioxidant benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Incompatible ingredients such as strong acids, harsh surfactants, high concentrations of alcohol, certain preservatives (like benzyl alcohol), and fragrances that may cause irritation or destabilize the formulation.

Best

Centella Asiatica Extract (CICA)

Centella Asiatica Extract, also known as Gotu Kola or Cica, has gained acclaim in skincare, especially in South Korean. Rich in antioxidants like madecassoside, it's prized for its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, aiding in wound healing and skin repair. Research highlights its ability to boost moisture, support skin barrier function, and even improve cellulite or stretch marks by regulating microcirculation. Its active compounds, including asiaticoside and madecassic acid, stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis, promote collagen production, and enhance antioxidant activity. Centella Asiatica is a scientifically backed plant-derived ingredient, making it a valuable addition to skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant,Plant Extracts

Benefits
Soothing, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile extract, and calendula for enhanced calming and anti-inflammatory benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Incompatible ingredients such as strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), and certain preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers) to prevent formulation issues.

Good

Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent derived from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), enhancing cosmetics' stability by preventing ingredients from binding with trace minerals present in water or other components. This action supports preservatives by inhibiting the mineral ions that microorganisms require to thrive, thus preserving the formula's integrity. Widely used in makeup, skincare, and hair care products, disodium EDTA is also a food additive. Studies confirm its safety in cosmetics, with concentrations up to 0.85% in leave-on products, affirming its role as a beneficial ingredient aiding in formula stability and preservative efficacy.

Category
Chelating Agent

Good

Xanthan Gum

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from fermentation, often used as a thickener and emulsion stabilizer in skincare and food products. It enhances texture and viscosity, transforming runny formulations into more gel-like consistencies. While effective alone, it's commonly combined with other thickeners and rheology modifiers to avoid stickiness and adjust formula flow. Its natural origin and safety approvals make it a versatile and widely accepted ingredient in both cosmetic and culinary applications. Xanthan gum's polysaccharide structure lends to its ability to improve product performance, making it a valued texture enhancer and emulsifier.

Category
Texture Enhancer,Emulsifier

Benefits
Cleansing Agent

Good

Ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin is a versatile ingredient known for its skin-softening properties and mild humectant capabilities, enhancing skin hydration without stickiness. It serves as a preservative and carrier/suspending agent, particularly effective when combined with phenoxyethanol. Widely used in deodorants for its antibacterial action against odor-causing bacteria, it contributes to formulary stability while feeling pleasant on the skin. This pale to colorless liquid is safe for use in rinse-off products up to 8% and leave-on formulas up to 2%, with rare occurrences of skin sensitization. Ethylhexylglycerin is a reliable preservative and emollient, valued for its efficacy and skin-friendly properties.

Category
Preservative, Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
A wide range of ingredients, including preservatives like phenoxyethanol, emollients like glycerin and squalane, humectants like hyaluronic acid, and botanical extracts for enhanced formulation stability and skin benefits.

Avoid with
Incompatible preservatives (e.g., parabens, formaldehyde releasers), harsh acids, strong oxidizing agents, and alkaline ingredients to prevent potential formulation issues and skin sensitivities.

Good

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a naturally derived thickening agent used as a binding agent or emulsifier in cosmetics. Sourced from cellulose, a polysaccharide found in plant cell walls, it helps create gel formulas and improve product texture. In its raw form, it is a white, odorless, tasteless powder. Approved by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel and the FDA, hydroxyethylcellulose is safe for use in cosmetics and as an indirect food additive. This versatile ingredient enhances the stability and feel of skincare and haircare products, offering excellent compatibility with other components.

Category
Texture Enhancer, Film-Forming Agent, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer

Benefits
Thickening Agent

Best

Panthenol

Panthenol, often referred to as pro-vitamin B5, is a top-rated humectant known for its exceptional ability to attract and retain moisture. It converts to pantothenic acid when applied to the skin, enhancing hydration and reducing transepidermal water loss. Panthenol also helps soothe skin, reducing sensitivity-induced redness. This versatile ingredient is water-soluble, making it easy to formulate into various skincare and haircare products. In its raw form, panthenol appears as a white, crystalline powder and is valued for its moisturizing, healing, and barrier-repairing properties.

Category
Humectant, Solvent

Benefits
Hydration, Soothing

Pair with
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, and allantoin to enhance moisturization, soothe the skin, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve overall skin health.

Avoid with
Strong acids, such as salicylic acid or glycolic acid, as well as harsh sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which can reduce its effectiveness and lead to irritation.

Best

Arginine

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid, crucial for hair keratin and skin collagen. It acts as a natural moisturizing factor, aiding in skin hydration and potentially speeding up wound healing. Arginine's positive charge makes it effective as a film former for skin and hair, and it can create a "time-release AHA effect," reducing irritation from AHAs. It offers antioxidant benefits and supports skin's natural repair processes. Safe in concentrations up to 18%, arginine is valuable in both skincare and haircare products, enhancing hydration and reducing damage from oxidative treatments.

Category
Antioxidant,Humectant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, moisturizing agents like glycerin, soothing extracts like aloe vera, antioxidant-rich ingredients like vitamin E, and skin-repairing compounds like niacinamide.

Avoid with
Harsh acids, such as salicylic acid or glycolic acid, strong oxidizing agents, like hydrogen peroxide, and certain preservatives, such as benzalkonium chloride, to prevent potential formulation issues.

Good

Propanediol

Propanediol, also known as 1,3-propanediol, is renowned for its hydrating properties and ability to enhance the absorption of other ingredients. It can function as an emollient, solvent, and preservative booster, ensuring formulations are effective and well-preserved. Derived naturally from corn or synthetically produced, propanediol is considered safe and well-tolerated, unlikely to cause skin sensitivity. Its moisturizing capabilities contribute to a smooth, dewy finish, making it a valuable addition to various skincare products.

Category
Solvent, Texture Enhancer

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, allantoin, and botanical extracts like chamomile or green tea extract for enhanced hydration, soothing, and skin-conditioning benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh sulfates, strong acids, certain preservatives (like formaldehyde releasers), highly alkaline ingredients, certain actives (like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids), and excessive fragrance oils.

Good

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic ingredient used to enhance the texture and stability of skincare and haircare products. In its raw form, it appears as a white powder and is particularly effective in spray-on formulations. This polymer works as a thickener, emulsion stabilizer, and pH adjuster, making it ideal for creating stable oil-in-water emulsions. Safe for use in cosmetics, even at concentrations as high as 30%, it enhances the overall feel and performance of various formulations, including gels and cleansers.

Category
Texture Enhancer, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer, Polymer

Benefits
Thickening Agent

Good

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Microcrystalline Cellulose is a versatile ingredient in skincare, known for its anti-aging benefits. Derived from the crystalline portion of cellulose fibers, it can be obtained from plants or synthetically produced. This ingredient serves multiple roles, including absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and texture enhancer. Additionally, it offers minor antioxidant properties that can improve the shelf life of formulations. Often used as an upcycled ingredient from agricultural waste, microcrystalline cellulose is safe and effective, enhancing products with a silky, non-greasy feel while providing gentle exfoliation.

Category
Absorbent, Texture Enhancer

Benefits
Oil-Controlling

Good

Mannitol

Mannitol is known for its excellent hydration benefits. As a plant-derived or lab-made sugar, it acts as a humectant, binding moisture to the skin and enhancing its hydration. Mannitol also conditions the skin and helps keep other ingredients blended together. It works synergistically with substances like hyaluronic acid, promoting a well-moisturized and healthy complexion.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or sorbitol. Mannitol also complements antioxidants such as vitamin C or E, and soothing agents like aloe vera or chamomile extract.

Avoid with
Strong acids, harsh surfactants, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, highly alkaline substances, and excessive fragrance oils to prevent formulation issues or skin sensitivities.

Good

Zea Mays (Corn) Starch

Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, derived from corn, is primarily used for its oil-absorbing properties, making it ideal for controlling shine on oily skin. It also enhances the texture of cosmetic products, providing a dry yet silky feel, and increases the viscosity of formulations. Additionally, it functions as a film-forming agent and, when properly formulated, acts as a skin protectant. Safe in concentrations ranging from 0.00002% to 99%, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch offers a pleasant skin feel and helps reduce greasiness and tackiness in various skincare and makeup products.

Category
Absorbent, Film-Forming Agent, Texture Enhancer

Benefits
Oil-Controlling

Best

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is a powerhouse skincare ingredient celebrated for its ability to improve uneven skin tone and combat signs of aging. It reduces the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even complexion. Additionally, niacinamide strengthens the skin's barrier and boosts hydration, mitigating the effects of environmental stressors. It also helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, enhancing overall skin texture. Unlike many antioxidants, niacinamide is stable in light and aids in repairing UV damage while enhancing ceramide production to fortify the skin. Effective even in low concentrations, it can treat conditions like acne and rosacea, making it an essential component of any skincare routine aimed at achieving a balanced and youthful skin tone.

Category
Humectant, Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Pore Minimizer, Soothing

Pair with
Complementary ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol, ceramides, peptides, and antioxidants such as vitamin E or green tea extract to enhance its benefits for skin health.Combining niacinamide with vitamin C can potentially lead to niacin formation, causing temporary flushing, but with stable forms like ascorbyl glucoside or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, this concern is usually unfounded, making them safe to use together.

Avoid with
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and low pH products, as they can reduce its efficacy or cause skin irritation.

Good

1,2-Hexanediol

1,2-Hexanediol is a versatile synthetic ingredient with multiple functions in cosmetics. Acting as a preservative, solvent, humectant, and texture enhancer, it primarily targets bacteria, making it effective for microbial protection. It enhances the efficacy of other preservatives and contributes to smooth-textured formulations. Safe and non-sensitizing, it's used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 3% in skincare products, typically supplied as a colorless liquid. Its ability to improve texture and preserve formulas makes it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

Category
Humectant, Texture Enhancer, Solvent

Benefits
Hydration

Best

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic Acid is a potent humectant renowned for its dark spot-fading, skin tone-evening, and anti-aging benefits. Derived from lysine, it inhibits the interaction between melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) and keratinocytes (skin cells), which disrupts the skin pathways leading to discoloration, effectively reducing dark spots and brown/gray patches, even for melasma-prone skin. Comparable to hydroquinone, it's well-tolerated and safe, especially in concentrations of 2-5%. Tranexamic acid also fortifies skin against UV exposure, enhancing its youthful appearance. Its efficacy is optimized in formulas with oil-soluble ingredients to aid penetration. Research supports its use for reducing redness and promoting a clearer, more even complexion.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Dark Spot Fading, Evens Skin Tone, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, kojic acid, and licorice extract for brightening and pigmentation benefits. Avoid combining with harsh exfoliants or strong acids.

Avoid with
Harsh exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs, strong acids, peroxides, and potentially irritating ingredients such as fragrances or essential oils to prevent skin sensitivity or reactions.

Best

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, part of the ceramide family, is crucial for skin health, contributing to 50% of skin's natural lipids. Its presence, signified by the "EOP," denotes the inclusion of phytosphingosine and a specific fatty acid type. As ceramide levels decrease with age, skin's barrier weakens, leading to increased vulnerability to environmental stressors and moisture loss. Topically applied ceramide EOP aids in fortifying the skin barrier, especially when combined with other ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. This combination enhances skin hydration, resilience, and suppleness, combating dehydration and external aggressors effectively.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Compatible emollients like squalane, shea butter, or jojoba oil, along with humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid for optimal skin hydration and barrier repair.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Ceramide EOP.

Best

Ceramide AP

Ceramide AP (α-hydroxy-N-stearoylphytosphingosine) is a crucial member of the ceramide family, constituting around 16% of skin's ceramides. Essential for a robust skin barrier, ceramide AP helps prevent moisture loss and protects against external stressors. Its decline is associated with skin issues like eczema and psoriasis. Incorporating ceramide AP in skincare formulas replenishes ceramide levels, enhancing skin hydration, texture, and resilience. When combined with fatty acids and cholesterol, ceramides synergistically maintain skin health by regulating processes essential for skin integrity and function.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Cholesterol and fatty acids like linoleic acid for optimal skin barrier support and hydration. Avoid harsh surfactants, strong acids, and high concentrations of fragrance oils.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate, strong acids, high concentrations of alcohol, excessive fragrance oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Ceramide AP to maintain its efficacy and skin benefits.

Best

Ceramide AS

Ceramide AS is a vital component in skincare, renowned for its hydrating and barrier repair properties. Part of the ceramide family alongside ceramide NG and ceramide AP, formerly known as ceramide 4 and ceramide 5, it fortifies the skin's moisture barrier and shields against environmental stressors. When combined with hyaluronic acid and fatty acids, such as cholesterol, ceramide AS enhances skin's resilience and moisture retention. Typically used in blends with other ceramides, it's effective at concentrations of 0.1-3%, ensuring optimal benefits while requiring only a small amount in formulations.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, niacinamide, panthenol, or squalane for enhanced moisturization and skin barrier repair. Avoid harsh exfoliants, strong acids, and incompatible emulsifiers for optimal compatibility.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), strong acids, high concentrations of exfoliating agents (like salicylic acid), fragrances, and certain preservatives (like parabens) when formulating with Ceramide AS.

Best

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS, a crucial lipid in skincare, bolsters skin's natural moisture retention and fortifies its protective barrier. As part of the ceramide family, it's instrumental in improving skin texture and resilience, especially when paired with fatty acids and cholesterol. Derived from both natural and synthetic sources, including yeast, Ceramide NS plays a vital role in maintaining skin health by enhancing moisture levels and defending against external aggressors. Its ability to stimulate ceramide production within the skin underscores its significance in skincare formulations aimed at nourishing and protecting the skin's moisture barrier.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Good

Phloretin

A flavonoid derived from apples and apple tree bark, is renowned for its antioxidant prowess. Topically applied, it aids in addressing uneven skin tone and acts as a penetration enhancer, facilitating the absorption of beneficial ingredients into deeper skin layers. This makes it a valuable component in skincare, offering protective, brightening, and synergistic benefits when combined with other ingredients.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone

Pair with
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), ferulic acid, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and botanical extracts like green tea, licorice root, or chamomile for enhanced antioxidant, brightening, and anti-aging benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), certain preservatives (e.g., DMDM hydantoin), incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, certain actives (e.g., benzoyl peroxide), and excessive fragrance oils.

Good

Stearic Acid

Stearic Acid is a multifunctional fatty acid, serving as an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer in skincare. It's effective in preventing moisture loss from the skin and reinforcing its protective barrier. Often used in makeup, it can be either synthetic or animal-derived. In its raw form, it appears as white to faintly yellow crystals or powder, contributing to the smoothness and stability of various skincare formulations.

Category
Emollient, Emulsifier, Texture Enhancer

Benefits
Hydration

Good

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources or synthetically produced, stands apart from drying alcohols like denatured alcohol. It's a gentle emollient that softens and smooths skin, also used to carry other ingredients and adjust formula thickness. FDA-approved even in "alcohol-free" products.

Category
Texture Enhancer, Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Good

Hydrolyzed Extensin

Hydrolyzed Extensin is a conditioning ingredient derived from plants and used in skincare and haircare products. It's obtained from extensin, a structural glycoprotein found in plants' cell walls, and is broken down into smaller molecules through hydrolysis. Known for its hydrating and conditioning properties, it helps reduce water loss from the skin. Commonly sourced from carrots, it's also called "carrot collagen" or "vegetable collagen," although it differs from actual collagen.

Category
Humectant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, soothing agents like aloe vera or chamomile extract, and nourishing oils like jojoba oil or argan oil.

Avoid with
Ingredients like strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), high concentrations of alcohol, and incompatible preservatives (e.g., DMDM hydantoin) to prevent potential formulation issues.

Best

Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract

Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil is a concentrated oil extracted from green coffee beans. Initial research suggests promising effects on skin, including restoration, smoothness, and improved moisture retention. Rich in antioxidants, it shows potential benefits for skin health, although further studies are needed to fully understand its skincare properties.

Category
Plant Extracts, Antioxidant, Emollient

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Hydration

Pair with
Caffeine, antioxidants like green tea extract or vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and emollients such as jojoba oil or shea butter.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants, strong acids, incompatible emulsifiers, highly alkaline ingredients, synthetic fragrances, and excessive preservatives when formulating with Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract.

Best

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract, also known as Gotu Kola or Cica, has gained acclaim in skincare, especially in South Korean cica creams. Rich in antioxidants like madecassoside, it's prized for its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, aiding in wound healing and skin repair. Research highlights its ability to boost moisture, support skin barrier function, and even improve cellulite or stretch marks by regulating microcirculation. Its active compounds, including asiaticoside and madecassic acid, stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis, promote collagen production, and enhance antioxidant activity. Centella Asiatica is a versatile, scientifically backed ingredient, making it a valuable addition to skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Soothing, Anti-Aging

Best

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol, extracted from Psoralea corylifolia seeds, is a potent antioxidant and anti-aging agent. It mimics retinol's effects without the irritation, showing improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, and firmness. In acne, it reduces sebum, fights bacteria, and curbs inflammation. It also hydrates, inhibits melanin, and stabilizes retinol, making it a versatile skincare ingredient worth exploring.

Category
Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Soothing

Pair with
Compatible antioxidants like vitamin C or E, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, soothing agents like aloe vera, and gentle exfoliants like lactic acid for enhanced anti-aging benefits.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh exfoliants, high concentrations of retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and incompatible antioxidants or emulsifiers to prevent potential skin irritation or product instability.

Best

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopheryl Acetate, the esterified version of pure vitamin E, is widely used in cosmetics due to its stability and longer shelf life. However, renowned dermatologist Leslie Baumann notes that while tocopheryl acetate lasts longer, it may be less effectively absorbed by the skin compared to pure vitamin E. This difference in absorption could impact its photoprotective benefits, suggesting that the pure form of vitamin E may offer superior advantages in skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Soothing

Pair with
Antioxidant-rich ingredients like vitamin C (ascorbic acid), niacinamide, retinol, or botanical extracts such as green tea or aloe vera for enhanced skin protection and rejuvenation.

Avoid with
Incompatible ingredients like strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), and certain preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers) to prevent formulation issues.

Good

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a synthetic, odorless antioxidant prized for stabilizing skincare products like sunscreens. Its recommended usage level ranges from 0.01-0.1%, ensuring stability without penetrating past the skin's surface. Typically blended with other ingredients for enhanced efficacy, it protects against oxidative degradation and is a popular alternative to BHT.

Category
Antioxidant

Good

Benzotrizolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol is a UV absorber utilized in transparent packaging to shield sensitive ingredients from photooxidative degradation. With a recommended usage rate of 0.01% - 0.1%, it safeguards colors, fragrances, and natural extracts, ensuring product stability and longevity.

Category
Uv Absorber

Good

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Potassium cetyl phosphate, a white to beige powder, serves as a versatile cleansing agent and emulsifier in skincare products. It's particularly prized for stabilizing oil-water emulsions, making it ideal for sunscreens to enhance SPF and water resistance. Used at concentrations up to 8.3%, it's deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review for cosmetic use.

Category
Cleansing Agent, Emulsifier

Good

Sodium Phytate

Sodium phytate, a synthetic salt derived from antioxidant phytic acid, acts as a chelating agent in cosmetics, preventing metals from binding to water and stabilizing formulations. This hygroscopic powder, highly soluble in water, maintains product consistency and prevents color changes caused by metal ions. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review confirms its safety, requiring only small amounts for effective chelation in concentrations ranging from 0.0099% to 0.5%.

Category
Chelating Agent

Good

Citiric Acid

Citric Acid, derived from citrus fruits, serves primarily as a pH adjuster in skincare. As an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), it can exfoliate skin, albeit less effectively than glycolic or lactic acids. Citric acid's exfoliating properties are typically utilized in higher concentrations, around 20%, for sun-damaged skin and hydration enhancement. However, it's more commonly used in skincare as a pH adjuster rather than a standalone exfoliant.

Category
Chelating Agent

Best

Adenosine

Adenosine, derived from yeast and naturally present in the body, is a soothing and skin-restoring ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle benefits. Its presence in skin cells allows for direct effectiveness when applied topically. Studies suggest it aids in wound healing, acts as an anti-inflammatory, and supports collagen production, skin firmness, and barrier repair. Adenosine's safety is affirmed for concentrations up to 1% in leave-on skincare products.

Category
Plant Extracts

Benefits
Soothing

Pair with
Niacinamide, peptides, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, green tea extract, retinol, and vitamin C to enhance anti-aging, hydration, and skin-soothing benefits. Avoid highly acidic ingredients to maintain stability.

Avoid with
Strong acids (like glycolic acid), potent retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and certain preservatives (like parabens) to prevent potential instability and skin irritation.

Best

Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols

Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil, a nonfragrant oil, offers emollient benefits and potential antioxidants for skin health. It's abundant in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, contributing to skin nourishment and hydration. This oil is valued for its moisturizing properties and potential antioxidant activity.

Category
Emollient, Plant Extracts, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Emollients like shea butter, humectants like glycerin, antioxidants like vitamin E, surfactants like coco-glucoside, and actives like niacinamide for enhanced moisturizing and skin-soothing benefits.

Avoid with
Strong acids (like salicylic acid), harsh surfactants (like SLS), incompatible preservatives (like formaldehyde releasers), and high concentrations of essential oils or synthetic fragrances.

Good

Silica

Silica, a mineral abundant in nature and synthesized industrially, serves as an absorbent powder and thickening agent in cosmetics. It aids in pigment distribution, preventing makeup settling and ensuring smooth application. Silica nanoparticles enhance ingredient absorption and act as a delivery system for antioxidants. FDA-approved for food and considered safe in cosmetics, it's valued for oil-absorbing properties in mattifying products and as a suspension aid for insoluble particles.

Category
Texture Enhancer, Absorbent, Occlusive/Opacifying Agent

Benefits
Oil Control

Good

Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde, a potent retinol derivative and direct precursor to retinoic acid, is renowned for its anti-aging and skin-improving benefits. It effectively reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, while also enhancing the appearance of blemish-prone and oily skin. With fewer conversion steps needed compared to pure retinol, retinaldehyde is often better tolerated. Innovations like encapsulation have further improved its stability and skin compatibility. Effective at low concentrations, it remains a powerful skincare ingredient, though it should be avoided during pregnancy.

Category
Antioxidant, Retinoids

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Oil Control

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid for hydration, niacinamide for soothing and brightening, and peptides for enhancing skin repair and anti-aging benefits, creating a comprehensive skincare regimen.

Avoid with
A retinol derivative, effectively reduces wrinkles and blemishes with better tolerance than retinol, but should be avoided during pregnancy due to its similarity to prescription retinoids.

Good

PPG-5-Ceteth-20

PPG-5-Ceteth-20 is a versatile synthetic ingredient in skincare, serving as a surfactant, emulsifying agent, and emollient. It aids in blending water and oil-based components seamlessly while imparting a smooth, dry feel on the skin. Additionally, it helps retain moisture by forming a protective barrier and preventing water loss.

Category
Cleansing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifier

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., coco-glucoside), emollients (e.g., shea butter), humectants (e.g., glycerin), and botanical extracts (e.g., chamomile) for effective skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, and incompatible emulsifiers to ensure product stability and efficacy.

Best

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, derived from goji berries, offers antioxidant properties and acts as a skin-softening agent. Rich in beneficial compounds, this extract helps defend against environmental stressors while promoting a smoother, more supple complexion.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Hydration

Pair with
Antioxidants (e.g., vitamin C, green tea extract), hydrating ingredients (e.g., hyaluronic acid, glycerin), soothing agents (e.g., aloe vera, chamomile extract), and other botanical extracts for enhanced benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract.

Good

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate is a versatile emulsifier, typically derived from plant sources for ethical considerations. This pale paste is adept at blending oil and water, essential for effective oil-based facial cleansers. When combined with polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate, it’s especially suitable for wet-face applications, unlike traditional makeup removers. Additionally, it acts as a hydrating agent and stabilizes other beneficial ingredients like ceramides, enhancing the overall effectiveness of skincare formulations.

Category
Emulsifier, Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Mild surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), gentle emollients (e.g., shea butter), humectants (e.g., glycerin), and compatible preservatives (e.g., phenoxyethanol) for effective and well-tolerated formulations.

Avoid with
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), strong acids such as glycolic acid, high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when using Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate in formulations.

Best

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, derived from aloe vera, is rich in minerals, vitamins, and polyphenols, making it a popular antioxidant ingredient. Its soothing properties and ability to hydrate skin make it valuable in skincare. While it’s not a miracle anti-aging solution, its proven benefits justify its presence in skincare products. Safe and effective, it’s often used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10%, blended with glycols for better skin absorption.

Category
Humectant, Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Soothing, Hydration

Pair with
Soothing ingredients like chamomile extract or calendula extract, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, and calming ingredients like allantoin or panthenol.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible preservatives when formulating with Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract.

Good

Dendrobium Nobile Stem Extract

Dendrobium Nobile Stem Extract is derived from the orchid plant Dendrobium nobile. It's known for its hydrating and antioxidant properties, helping to nourish and protect the skin. This extract is often used in skincare formulations to improve skin moisture levels and promote a healthier, more radiant complexion.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, soothing botanical extracts like chamomile, and antioxidants like vitamin C for a comprehensive skincare formulation.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (like sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (like glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Dendrobium nobile stem extract.

Good

Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer

Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer is a collagen-derived ingredient that enhances skin hydration and elasticity. Its crosslinked structure promotes longer-lasting moisture retention and improved skin firmness. It's often used in skincare formulations to support a plump, youthful appearance and can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Humectants like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol for enhanced hydration, emollients such as shea butter or jojoba oil for skin softness, and antioxidants like vitamin C or green tea extract for added skin benefits.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), high concentrations of alcohol, and incompatible emulsifiers to maintain product stability and efficacy.

Good

Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate

Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate is a probiotic-rich ingredient obtained from fermented soymilk. It offers multiple skin benefits, including hydration, soothing, and improving skin's natural barrier function. With its antioxidant properties and ability to promote healthy skin flora, it is a valuable addition to skincare formulations for overall skin wellness.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), soothing agents (e.g., aloe vera), hydrating ingredients (e.g., hyaluronic acid), and nourishing oils (e.g., jojoba oil) for balanced skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (like salicylic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible preservatives when formulating with Lactobacillus/Soy Milk Ferment Filtrate.

Best

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is rich in isoflavones like genistein and daidzein, acting as antioxidants and phytoestrogens. These compounds visibly improve skin firmness, reduce UV-induced redness, and may delay signs of aging due to estrogen loss. Soybean extract also inhibits melanosome transfer, helpful for most pigmentation except melasma. With proven collagen synthesis stimulation, it’s a multifunctional ingredient with promising benefits for skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile extract, and green tea extract. Also, combine with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin for enhanced skin benefits.

Avoid with
Synthetic fragrances, harsh preservatives (e.g., parabens), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract.

Good

Octyldodecanol

Octyldodecanol, a mineral wax, enhances textures in cosmetics, notably stabilizing lipsticks and stick foundations, ensuring smooth blending. This clear, slightly yellow, odorless oil acts as a versatile, medium-spreading emollient, imparting a pleasant, smooth feel to the skin across various formulations.

Category
Occlusive/Opacifying Agent, Emollient, Texture Enhancer

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Emollients like squalane, shea butter, or jojoba oil for enhanced moisturization. Avoid pairing with harsh surfactants, strong acids, or incompatible emulsifiers to maintain product stability and efficacy.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Octyldodecanol.

Best

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid, derived from milk but typically synthetically produced in cosmetics, is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates, hydrates, and strengthens skin's barrier. With a pH between 3 and 4 and concentrations of 5-12%, it gently removes dead skin cells, revealing smoother skin and promoting ceramide production. Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid's larger molecule makes it gentler but slightly less penetrating, offering effective yet milder exfoliation and anti-aging benefits. It's also a superb moisturizer and is FDA-approved for its hydrating properties. Overall, lactic acid is a versatile AHA suitable for various skin concerns.

Category
Exfoliant, Humectant, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Hydration

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, emollients such as shea butter, and soothing agents like aloe vera to enhance its exfoliating benefits while maintaining skin hydration and comfort.

Avoid with
Harsh exfoliants (e.g., glycolic acid), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of retinoids, and incompatible emulsifiers for optimal formulation compatibility.

Good

Copper Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1 is a skin conditioning ingredient made up of three amino acids and copper, offering anti-aging benefits like collagen support and hydration. Its signaling peptide nature targets skin proteins, boosting firmness, density, and reducing wrinkles. With antioxidant properties, it protects against environmental damage and soothes skin. While it shows potential for hair growth stimulation, this may not suit everyone. Studies suggest it improves skin health, but long-term effects and potential side effects, like increased facial hair or copper overdosing, warrant more research and cautious use. Overall, it's a promising but complex ingredient for anti-aging skincare enthusiasts.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Peptides

Pair with
Antioxidants (e.g., vitamin C, green tea extract), peptides (e.g., Matrixyl), moisturizing agents (e.g., hyaluronic acid), and skin-repairing ingredients (e.g., niacinamide) for enhanced anti-aging and skin rejuvenation benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh acids (like salicylic acid), high concentrations of vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and incompatible antioxidants when formulating with Copper Tripeptide-1 to prevent potential interactions or destabilization.

Best

Ectoin

Ectoin is an amino acid derivative and osmolyte, known for its protective and hydrating effects on skin. As an emollient, it aids in reducing moisture loss and promoting balanced hydration, resulting in a smooth, soft skin surface. Ectoin acts as a buffer and anti-pollution agent, shielding skin from environmental stressors like UVA rays and pollutants, contributing to anti-aging benefits. Its antioxidant properties and ability to interrupt dark spot formation, improve pore appearance, soothe skin, and support a healthy barrier make it a versatile skincare ingredient. Recommended usage ranges from 0.3% to 2.0% in cosmetics, available as a white crystalline powder.

Category
Emollient, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, soothing agents like aloe vera extract, antioxidants like vitamin C or green tea extract, and emollients like shea butter for enhanced skin benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Ectoin.

Good

Tapioca Starch

Tapioca starch, derived from Cassava roots, is a natural thickener and texture enhancer rich in amylose and amylopectin, imparting its thickening properties akin to tapioca. In cosmetics, it stabilizes emulsions, creates gels, and aids ingredient delivery. Its soft, white powder form makes it a talc substitute in body powders and pressed powders, offering oil absorption and enhancing emulsions with added cushion and richness.

Category
Texture Enhancer, Absorbent

Benefits
Oil Control

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), humectants (e.g., glycerin), emollients (e.g., jojoba oil), and botanical extracts (e.g., chamomile) for effective skincare formulations with enhanced texture and benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and high concentrations of oils or emollients that may affect its textural properties.

Good

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used synthetic preservative, approved globally for rinse-off or leave-on cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1%. It exhibits broad-spectrum activity against pathogens, is water and oil soluble, and works in various pH ranges. Despite recent controversy, the safety of cosmetics-grade phenoxyethanol is well-established, with rare allergic reactions reported. Its versatility extends to formulations, offering thermal stability and enhancing preservative activity when combined with ethylhexylglycerin. Derived synthetically but also occurring naturally in green tea, phenoxyethanol is a safe and effective choice in cosmetic preservation.

Category
Preservative

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., coco glucoside), emollients (e.g., glycerin), humectants (e.g., hyaluronic acid), and compatible preservatives (e.g., ethylhexylglycerin) in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Formaldehyde-releasing agents (e.g., DMDM hydantoin), quaternium compounds (e.g., benzalkonium chloride), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and chlorine-based sanitizers to prevent potential formulation issues.

Best

Trehalose

Trehalose is a water-binding plant sugar known for its hydrating properties in skincare. It is also utilized as a stability-enhancing ingredient in cosmetic formulations and can act as a thickening agent. Additionally, trehalose shows potential as an antioxidant, aiding in limiting oxidative stress on the skin, although the exact mechanism is not fully understood. Its physical form is a white, odorless powder, making it versatile for various skincare products.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Humectants like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or sorbitol for enhanced hydration. Avoid harsh surfactants, strong acids, and high concentrations of essential oils when formulating with Trehalose.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of alcohol, and incompatible preservatives when formulating with Trehalose.

Best

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide renowned for its skin repair and anti-aging capabilities. This fatty acid-linked peptide, also known as pal-GHK, communicates with the skin, encouraging collagen synthesis for smoother, younger-looking skin. It's a key component of Matrixyl 3000, a widely popular peptide complex. Research suggests its efficacy rivals that of retinol, making it a valuable addition to skincare formulations, typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.0000001% to 0.001%.

Category
Peptides

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and peptides like Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 for enhanced collagen production, skin firmness, and overall anti-aging benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1.

Best

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 is a peptide derived from combining palmitic acid with a tripeptide made of arginine, histidine, and phenylalanine. The numbering in its name reflects its chemical structure and the amino acids it comprises. In skincare, it's valued for its synthetic formulation, offering benefits such as skin rejuvenation and support for collagen production, aiding in firmness and elasticity for a more youthful appearance.

Category
Peptides

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, emollients such as squalane or shea butter, antioxidants like vitamin C or green tea extract, and gentle surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8.

Best

Phospholipids

Phospholipids are lipid compounds crucial for cell membranes. In skincare, they act as emollients and skin-identical ingredients, providing hydration and emulsifying properties. They can form liposomes to enhance ingredient delivery and absorption. Derived from sources like soybeans and egg yolks, phospholipids offer moisturizing benefits, replace depleted lipids, and aid in ingredient effectiveness and antioxidant protection.

Category
Humectant, Emollient, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Compatible emollients (e.g., squalane, shea butter), humectants (e.g., glycerin, hyaluronic acid), antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E, green tea extract), and soothing botanical extracts (e.g., chamomile, aloe vera).

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), and high concentrations of essential oils when formulating with phospholipids to maintain stability and effectiveness.

Best

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal peptide known for its impact on skin firmness and the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. Derived from lysine, valine, and palmitic acid, it supports collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin matrix, promoting a smoother and more youthful appearance. Studies show it can inhibit enzymes that degrade skin's firmness, making it a valued anti-aging ingredient.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, emollients like squalane or shea butter, antioxidants like vitamin C, and soothing agents like aloe vera for enhanced anti-aging benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5.

Good

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Echinacea Purpurea Extract, derived from the purple coneflower, boasts antioxidant properties, making it a sought-after ingredient in skincare. Its soothing qualities, attributed to alkylamides, glycoproteins, and polysaccharides, extend benefits to sensitive skin types, including those prone to conditions like rosacea and eczema. Studies indicate its efficacy in alleviating itchiness and shielding skin from environmental aggressors that contribute to aging signs.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Soothing

Pair with
Soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile extract, or calendula for enhanced calming benefits. Avoid harsh exfoliants, strong acids, and incompatible emulsifiers in formulations with Echinacea purpurea extract.

Avoid with
Harsh exfoliants (e.g., physical scrubs with sharp particles), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible preservatives when formulating with Echinacea purpurea extract.

Good

Cetearyl Glucoside

Cetearyl Glucoside, a blend of cetearyl alcohol and glucose, is a sugar-based emulsifier known for its emulsifying properties in cosmetics. It enhances formulary texture and provides skin-softening emollience, requiring only small amounts (1-1.5%) to form stable emulsions. Cosmetic products using up to 3% concentration of cetearyl glucoside have been deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, ensuring good spreadability and a luxurious skin feel in resulting creams and lotions.

Category
Emulsifier, Cleansing Agent, Texture Enhancer

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., decyl glucoside), humectants (e.g., glycerin), emollients (e.g., shea butter), antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E), and botanical extracts (e.g., chamomile) for effective and skin-friendly formulations.

Avoid with
Incompatible emulsifiers, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and strong acids like salicylic acid, with CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE in formulations to ensure stability and efficacy.

Best

Urea

Urea, a natural component of the skin's moisturizing factor (NMF), is an effective humectant and skin conditioner. Its water-binding properties, especially at concentrations between 3-5%, moisturize and soften the skin, improving barrier function and reducing dryness triggers. Higher concentrations, from 10% to 40%, exhibit exfoliating properties, aiding in the reduction of dry, scaly skin and enhancing water retention. Urea's biological activities include enhancing antimicrobial peptides, breaking down protein bonds for better amino acid release, and regulating skin structure. While higher concentrations may have an ammonia-like odor and a tacky finish, they are beneficial in treating various skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

Category
Humectant, Exfoliant, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer

Benefits
Hydration, Smooths Bumpy Skin, Evens Skin Tone

Pair with
Humectants like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or propylene glycol; occlusives like petrolatum or squalane; and emollients like shea butter or jojoba oil for enhanced hydration and skin barrier repair.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of urea in leave-on products, and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with urea.

Good

Carbomers

Carbomers are a group of synthetic polymers used in skincare to create gel-like formulations and control product texture through thickening. These polymers, derived from acrylic acid, convert liquids into clear, viscous gels when neutralized with a base like sodium hydroxide. Carbomers enhance skin permeation and retention of active ingredients and are found in a wide range of beauty products, including hair care and makeup. Known for creating non-tacky, pleasant-feeling gels, carbomers are popular and commonly used at concentrations of 1% or less in most formulations.

Category
Texture Enhancer,pH Adjuster/Stabilizer

Benefits
Polymer

Pair with
Triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, emollients such as glycerin or squalane, humectants like hyaluronic acid, and compatible preservatives for stability in formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high pH ingredients (e.g., sodium hydroxide), and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with carbomer.

Good

Sodium Polyacrylate

Sodium Polyacrylate is a versatile synthetic polymer, known for its super absorbent properties, capable of absorbing 100-1000 times its mass in water. This granular white powder is used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, emulsion stabilizer, thickening agent, and emollient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel deems it safe in concentrations of 0.3-1.4%. Beyond cosmetics, it serves as a gelling agent in disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, and as a food additive for thickening and preservation. In water-based formulas, it effectively thickens, emulsifies, and stabilizes, making it a valuable multi-tasker.

Category
Film-Forming Agent, Polymer, Absorbent

Benefits
Oil Control

Pair with
Water-binding humectants (e.g., glycerin, hyaluronic acid), emollients (e.g., squalane, shea butter), and stabilizing agents (e.g., xanthan gum) for enhanced hydration, moisturization, and formulation stability.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and incompatible emulsifiers that may lead to formulation issues or skin sensitivities.

Good

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol, a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources or synthetically produced, stands apart from drying alcohols like denatured alcohol. It's a gentle emollient that softens and smooths skin, also used to carry other ingredients and adjust formula thickness. FDA-approved even in "alcohol-free" products.

Category
Texture Enhancer, Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Humectants like glycerin, emollients like squalane, antioxidants like vitamin E, preservatives like phenoxyethanol, and active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide for enhanced hydration and stability.

Avoid with
Incompatible surfactants (e.g., anionic surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and high concentrations of essential oils when formulating with CETEARYL ALCOHOL.

Good

Pentylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile ingredient found naturally in some plants but typically lab-derived for cosmetics. It is a humectant, binding well to water, thus providing excellent hydration and aiding ingredient penetration. Pentylene glycol improves the texture of skincare formulas and has mild preservative properties at concentrations of 1-5%. While there are reports of it being a skin sensitizer, it is considered safe in cosmetic formulations at 0.001% to 5%. This multifunctional ingredient also acts as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent, broad-spectrum antimicrobial, and enhances the water resistance of sunscreens. It contributes to a silky, pleasant skin feel.

Category
Humectant, Solvent, Preservative

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Humectants like glycerin, emollients like squalane, antioxidants like vitamin E, preservatives like phenoxyethanol, and active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide for enhanced hydration and stability.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of alcohols (e.g., ethanol), and certain essential oils (e.g., tea tree oil) to prevent skin irritation or formulation instability.

Good

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic, viscous emollient known for its long-lasting moisture retention. Acting as a lubricant, it provides a soft, smooth feel to the skin. It can substitute for mineral oil or silicones in skincare, maintaining the skin’s moisture barrier and enhancing product texture. Used in concentrations of 4% or less, it is deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board. This versatile ingredient also serves as a waterproofing agent in sunscreens and makeup, and enhances shine in lip gloss formulations, available in various grades from light and non-residue to more substantial forms.

Category
Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Polymer

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Emollients like squalane, occlusives like petrolatum, silicones like dimethicone, antioxidants like vitamin E, and humectants like glycerin for enhanced moisturization and skin barrier protection.

Avoid with
Strong oxidizing agents (e.g., benzoyl peroxide), highly alkaline ingredients (e.g., sodium hydroxide), incompatible solvents (e.g., acetone), and certain essential oils in high concentrations when formulating with hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Good

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone is a versatile synthetic ingredient used in cosmetics for its antioxidant, preservative-boosting, and soothing properties. Known as p-hydroxyacetophenone, it neutralizes various free radicals. It enhances preservation systems, allowing lower preservative levels while maintaining efficacy and reducing allergic reactions. Stable across a wide pH range, it is used in concentrations from 0.00068% to 5%, with 0.5% recommended for boosting preservatives. Hydroxyacetophenone also improves skin tolerance to preservatives. Safety assessments show it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Category
Antioxidant, Humectant

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Hydration

Pair with
Antioxidants like vitamin E, soothing agents like allantoin, humectants like glycerin, and emollients like squalane for enhanced skin protection and hydration in your formulations.

Avoid with
Strong oxidizing agents, highly acidic ingredients (e.g., glycolic acid), and incompatible preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers like DMDM hydantoin) when formulating with hydroxyacetophenone.

Best

Dimethicone

Dimethicone is a widely used, non-volatile silicone in cosmetics, known for its emollient and skin-protectant properties. Recognized by the U.S. FDA, it forms an air-permeable barrier that prevents moisture loss while allowing perspiration to evaporate, making it ideal for oil-free moisturizers with a silky, non-greasy feel. It is often combined with alumina to ensure even distribution of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide in sunscreens. Though synthetic, dimethicone is derived from natural silicon and is safe in cosmetic products. It smooths skin, fills fine lines temporarily, and enhances scar treatment gels. In hair care, it smooths and protects hair but may cause buildup.

Category
Silicone, Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Glycerin, emollients like squalane, silicones like cyclopentasiloxane, antioxidants like vitamin E, and soothing agents like allantoin to enhance moisturization, spreadability, and skin protection.

Avoid with
High concentrations of strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), certain solvents (e.g., alcohol), and incompatible emulsifiers (e.g., sodium stearate).

Good

Sorbitol

Sorbitol is a sweet-tasting sugar substitute often used in cosmetic products for its moisturizing properties. It helps skin retain water, enhancing hydration. Additionally, sorbitol acts as a thickening agent, improving the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and silky feel.

Category
Humectant

Benefits
Moisturizer

Pair with
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, niacinamide, aloe vera, propylene glycol, vitamin E, allantoin, and mild surfactants (e.g., coco glucoside) for enhanced hydration and moisturizing effects in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), strong bases (e.g., sodium hydroxide), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), and certain preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers) when formulating with sorbitol.

Best

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil, commonly known as sea buckthorn oil, is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. It possesses anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and skin-regenerating properties, making it beneficial for various skincare applications. The oil's high content of omega fatty acids aids in maintaining skin hydration and elasticity, while its antioxidants help combat free radical damage, promoting a youthful and radiant complexion. Additionally, sea buckthorn oil is known for its ability to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and support the skin's natural barrier function, making it a valuable ingredient in nourishing and protecting the skin.

Category
Antioxidant, Emollient

Best

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Oil

Curcuma longa root, the origin of turmeric, is rich in curcumin, a potent antioxidant pigment responsible for its vibrant yellow hue. Beyond culinary use, turmeric offers numerous health benefits, whether ingested or applied topically. Recent studies highlight its potential in promoting healthy skin, soothing irritations, and addressing acne-related concerns through its modulating properties, resulting in a more balanced and even complexion.


Category
Antioxidant, plant extracts

Pair with
Soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile extract, or centella asiatica, along with emollients such as jojoba oil or squalane for enhanced calming and hydration benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh acids (e.g., salicylic acid), strong oxidizing agents, alkaline substances, and certain preservatives (e.g., benzyl alcohol) when formulating with Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root oil.

Best

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, extracted from sunflower seeds, is a lightweight and non-comedogenic oil rich in linoleic acid, oleic acid, and vitamin E. Its emollient properties deeply moisturize the skin without clogging pores, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. The antioxidants in sunflower seed oil help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a more youthful appearance by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it can soothe and calm irritated or inflamed skin, making it a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations.

Category
Emollient, Plant Extracts, Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Pair with
Gentle surfactants like coco glucoside, emollients such as shea butter, humectants like glycerin, antioxidants such as vitamin E, and soothing ingredients like chamomile extract.

Avoid with
Comedogenic ingredients like coconut oil, high concentrations of essential oils, harsh surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and incompatible emulsifiers.

Best

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, commonly known as Marula oil, is a nutrient-rich oil derived from the seeds of the Marula tree. It is renowned for its high content of antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins E and C. Marula oil is celebrated for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It helps to nourish and hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it supports the skin's natural barrier, promoting a smoother and more radiant complexion. Suitable for all skin types, Marula oil is a versatile and highly beneficial cosmetic ingredient.

Category
Emollient, Plant Extracts, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Lightweight emollients like squalane, jojoba oil, or argan oil, as well as soothing ingredients like chamomile extract or aloe vera for enhanced hydration and skin nourishment.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and incompati\ble emulsifiers to maintain its efficacy and stability in formulations.

Best

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Corallina officinalis extract comes from a type of red seaweed. It has antioxidant and emollient properties in skin care products.This calcium, when applied on the skin, can help regulate skin’s oil production. Just like another alga, this alga carries a wide range of actives. It contains polysaccharide, amino acids, lipid, minerals, vitamins, chlorophyll, carotenoids, phycobilins, and other trace elements in it. Also, it carries a marine enzyme which has three elements, epidermal growth factor, and trace elements. It is a rigid or hard alga in structure. So, it can be used after crushing into a powder form.In powdered from Corallina officinalis can improve the viscosity of the product and also can exfoliate the skin bringing the lost glow back. It has a variety of ingredients that can help the skin from removing dead skin cell to free radical scavenging and from making skin moist to anti-aging benefits. It is used as anticellulite as well because It expedites the cellular turn over. It moisturizes the skin and makes skin smooth. As mentioned earlier, it gently removes the dead skin cells from the skin surface and brightens skin. It also protects skin from photodamage and photoaging as a sunscreen.

Category
Emollient, Plant Extracts, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, soothing agents like aloe vera extract, antioxidants like vitamin C, and emollients like shea butter for a comprehensive skincare formulation.

Avoid with
Harsh acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, incompatible preservatives, and strong surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate) when formulating with Corallina Officinalis Extract.

Best

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Orbignya oleifera seed oil is more commonly known as babassu oil, , is highly esteemed for its ability to smooth and soften the skin. This non-fragrant nut oil not only improves skin texture but also provides antioxidant benefits, making it an invaluable ingredient in skincare products. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties, thanks to its Vitamin E content, along with anti-inflammatory attributes. Babassu oil is versatile, suitable for both oily and dry skin types, and is rich in palmitic, myristic, and oleic acids.

Category
Emollient, Plant Extracts, Antioxidant

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., coco glucoside), emollients (e.g., shea butter), humectants (e.g., glycerin), and antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E) for moisturizing and nourishing skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil to maintain product stability and efficacy.

Best

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, derived from the holy basil plant, is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent used in skincare. Rich in ursolic acid and eugenol, it helps combat oxidative stress, soothes irritated skin, and provides antibacterial properties. This extract promotes a clear, radiant complexion by reducing acne, enhancing skin elasticity, and protecting against environmental damage. Its adaptogenic properties also help balance skin’s response to stress, making it a versatile ingredient in holistic skincare formulations.

Category
Antioxidant

Benefits
Anti-Aging

Best

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, derived from the seeds of the Moringa tree, is a nutrient-rich oil known for its high content of antioxidants, vitamins A and E, and essential fatty acids. It provides deep hydration and nourishment to the skin, improves elasticity, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Its anti-inflammatory properties help soothe irritated skin, making it ideal for sensitive skin types. Additionally, it enhances the skin's natural barrier, protecting against environmental damage and promoting a healthy, radiant complexion.

Category
Emollient, Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Best

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, derived from the ivy gourd, is a natural ingredient rich in antioxidants and vitamins. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and moisturizing properties. This extract helps soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and combat oxidative stress, promoting a healthier, more radiant complexion. Additionally, it aids in maintaining skin hydration and improving overall skin texture, making it a valuable component in various cosmetic formulations.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant extracts

Benefits
Hydration, Anti-Aging

Average

Amber Powder

Amber powder is made from finely-ground fossilized resin of trees, primarily pine varieties. Known for its use in jewelry, amber in powdered form serves as a mild physical exfoliant in skin care products. It can also thicken and add bulk to formulations. Despite its natural origin, amber powder is not a significant source of antioxidants and lacks fragrance due to its fossilized state. Usage levels in cosmetics vary and are not formally established.

Category
Absorbent

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, chamomile extract, shea butter, jojoba oil, vitamin E, and green tea extract for enhanced soothing, moisturizing, and antioxidant benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of alcohol, harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), and strong exfoliants (e.g., microbeads) to prevent irritation and formulation issues.

Best

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia azadirachta flower extract, also known as chinaberry, is derived from a plant commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine throughout India. This extract is rich in antioxidants, particularly effective at neutralizing peroxyl radicals, a highly damaging type of free radical. By modulating peroxyl radical production, this extract helps protect the body from oxidative stress and damage, supporting overall skin health and vitality.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant extracts

Benefits
Anti aging

Pair with
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, green tea extract, niacinamide, chamomile, and vitamin E for enhanced hydration, soothing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory benefits in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers) when formulating with Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract.

Best

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

An ingredient obtained from the leaves of the Azadirachta Indica tree, with its origins in India and Burma. Also known as the Miracle Tree and referred to as the village pharmacy due to its numerous curative properties In India, this extract, along with the leaves and twigs of the plant, are considered a true medical kit and as a remedy for virtually any complaint or ailment. The extract is traditionally known for its antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-fungal properties, and therefore ideal for the hygiene and care of the feet, as well as hands.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant extracts

Benefits
Anti aging

Pair with
Aloe vera, chamomile, green tea extract, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, glycerin, and mild surfactants like decyl glucoside for enhanced soothing, hydration, and anti-inflammatory benefits.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), strong acids like glycolic acid, high concentrations of synthetic fragrances, and incompatible preservatives like formaldehyde releasers when formulating with Iris Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract.

Good

Pyrus Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract

Pyrus Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract, derived from pears, is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and natural sugars. In skincare, it offers hydrating and soothing benefits, helping to maintain moisture balance and enhance skin softness. Its antioxidant properties protect against environmental damage, promoting a youthful appearance. Additionally, it contains gentle exfoliating acids that can improve skin texture and clarity, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetic formulations for all skin types.

Category
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Benefits
Soothing, Moisturizing

Pair with
Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, emollients such as squalane, soothing agents like aloe vera, and antioxidants such as vitamin E for a nourishing formulation.

Avoid with
Harsh preservatives (like parabens), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with Pyrus Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract to ensure product stability and skin compatibility.

Good

Glyceryl Caprylate

Glyceryl caprylate is a single ester of glycerin and the coconut-derived fatty acid caprylic acid. It’s a fairly solid ingredient with a wax-like texture and smooth finish. Usage levels of glyceryl caprylate varies by type of product and what the formulator is trying to accomplish. Amounts between 0.3–0.7% are standard for leave-on emulsion-type products such as moisturizers. If it’s being used as a wetting agent to improve texture or application, amounts between 0.3–1% are typically chosen. Rinse-off products such as cleansing oils may contain up to 5%. Glyceryl caprylate is considered safe and non-sensitizing as used in cosmetics

Category
Preservative, Emollient, Emulsifier, Cleansing Agent

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Mild surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), humectants (e.g., glycerin), emollients (e.g., shea butter), and compatible preservatives (e.g., phenoxyethanol) for effective skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and incompatible preservatives (e.g., parabens) when formulating with Glyceryl Caprylate.

Good

Ozokerite

Ozokerite is a mineral wax used to enhance texture and stability in cosmetics, especially in lipsticks and stick foundations. Composed mainly of saturated hydrocarbons, it has a high melting point (58-100°C) and helps keep stick products, like lip balms, solid and well-blended.

Category
Viscosity Controlling

Pair with
Compatible waxes (e.g., beeswax, carnauba wax), oils (e.g., mineral oil, jojoba oil), and emollients (e.g., lanolin, shea butter) to enhance texture, stability, and skin conditioning in formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), incompatible emulsifiers, and high concentrations of essential oils in formulations containing ozokerite.

Good

PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate is an ester of isostearic acid, polyethylene glycol, and glycerin, typically used as an emulsifier and mild cleansing agent. It helps oily ingredients rinse off without leaving a greasy residue and has skin-softening properties. This ingredient is effective in removing particulate matter from the skin. In rinse-off products, it's used up to 20%, while in leave-on products, it's used up to 5%. Its ability to create microemulsions makes it ideal for crystal-clear, gentle cleansers that rinse off easily without a washcloth.

Category
Cleansing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifier

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), emollients (e.g., squalane), humectants (e.g., glycerin), and antioxidant-rich ingredients (e.g., vitamin E) for effective and nourishing cleansing formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), and incompatible emulsifiers when formulating with PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate to maintain stability and efficacy.

Good

Trihydroxystearin

Trihydroxystearin is a mixture of glycerin and castor oil-derived fatty acid (hydroxystearic acid). Used in concentrations of 1–7%, it acts as an emollient and texture-enhancing thickener in cosmetics, particularly for the oil component. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review board deems it safe for use in cosmetics. This hydrogenated castor oil derivative effectively thickens oils and silicones, making it a versatile ingredient in various formulations.

Category
Viscosity Controlling, Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Occlusive/Opacifying Agent

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Emollients like squalane, shea butter, or jojoba oil, humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and compatible emulsifiers like cetyl alcohol or glyceryl stearate for effective skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers in formulations.

Good

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a common emollient in cosmetics, blending fatty alcohol and palmitic acid to soften and smooth the skin. Used in concentrations from 2-50%, it enhances texture, reduces moisture loss, and helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. It’s a versatile solvent, aiding in the dispersion of sunscreen actives. Often compared to silicones for its feel, it can replace mineral oil and is usually combined with other emollients for varied sensory properties. Ethylhexyl palmitate can be synthetic, plant-, or animal-derived.

Category
Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Emollients like squalane or shea butter, humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants like vitamin E or green tea extract for enhanced moisturization and skin protection.

Avoid with
Comedogenic ingredients like coconut oil, isopropyl palmitate, and isopropyl myristate when using ethylhexyl palmitate. These can potentially clog pores and lead to breakouts.

Best

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine (TEA) is used in cosmetics as a pH balancer and emulsion stabilizer, typically at concentrations less than 1%. While it can form nitrosamines, the risk is low in properly formulated products. It's alkaline with a pH of around 10 and is considered safe, but avoid products with TEA and nitrosamine-forming agents for added caution.

Category
pH Adjuster, Emulsifier

Benefits
Cleansing Agent

Pair with
Compatible surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), emollients (e.g., glycerin), humectants (e.g., hyaluronic acid), antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E), and preservatives (e.g., phenoxyethanol) for effective and stable formulations.

Avoid with
Nitrosamine-forming agents like 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane, or sodium nitrate when formulating with Triethanolamine.

Best

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, derived from coconut oil and glycerin, is an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient that helps retain moisture. It can also function as a thickener or penetration enhancer while being gentle on the skin. Clear, non-viscous, and odorless, it enhances spreadability and is well-tolerated by all skin types, making it a popular choice in skincare formulations.

Category
Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., coco glucoside), emollients (e.g., shea butter), humectants (e.g., glycerin), and antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E) for effective and well-tolerated skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible emulsifiers for optimal formulation compatibility.

Good

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is a type of polyhydroxy acid, or PHA. PHAs are supposed to be as effective as AHAs, but less sensitizing.Gluconolactone is chemically and functionally similar to AHAs (such as glycolic acid). The significant difference between it and AHAs is that gluconolactone has a larger molecular structure, which limits its ability to penetrate the skin, resulting in less potential for ensitizing side-effects. Supposedly, this reduced absorption into the skin does not hamper their effectiveness.Polyhydroxy acids can also function as antioxidants and may promote some amount of improvement in skin’s surface strength.

Category
Exfoliant

Benefits
Evens Skin Tone, Anti-Aging, Hydration

Best

Curcuma Longa

Curcuma Longa Root, the source of turmeric, contains curcumin, a polyphenolic antioxidant pigment responsible for its golden-yellow color. Beyond its culinary uses, turmeric offers health benefits when consumed or applied topically. Research shows turmeric and curcumin promote healthier skin by calming irritation and potentially reducing acne-related redness. They work by interrupting signaling in surface cells, helping to restore a more even skin appearance.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Soothing

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), soothing ingredients (e.g., aloe vera), antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E), and hydrating agents (e.g., hyaluronic acid) for effective and gentle skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh acids (e.g., salicylic acid), strong oxidizing agents, high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate) when formulating with Curcuma Longa.

Best

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, derived from green tea buds and leaves, is rich in antioxidants, particularly polyphenols like epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). It offers powerful antioxidant, UV protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, and antimicrobial properties, making it ideal for anti-aging and treating skin conditions such as rosacea, acne, and atopic dermatitis. High-quality extracts contain 50-90% catechins, providing substantial benefits. This versatile ingredient is highly valued in skincare for its effectiveness in protecting and improving skin health.

Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

Benefits
Anti-Aging, Soothing

Pair with
Antioxidants like vitamin C or green tea extract, humectants such as hyaluronic acid, soothing ingredients like aloe vera, and gentle surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., glycolic acid), high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible preservatives when formulating with Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract.

Good

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 is a versatile emulsifier that helps water and oil mix, enhancing the solubility of various ingredients in formulations. Widely used in cosmetics, it ensures product stability and improves texture, making it a common helper ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

Category
Surfactant

Benefits
Cleansing, emulsifying

Pair with
Essential oils (e.g., lavender oil), fragrances, water-soluble actives (e.g., niacinamide), emulsifiers (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), preservatives (e.g., phenoxyethanol), and humectants (e.g., glycerin) for effective formulations.

Avoid with
Strong oxidizers (e.g., hydrogen peroxide), high concentrations of essential oils, incompatible preservatives (e.g., formaldehyde releasers), and highly alkaline ingredients (e.g., sodium hydroxide) when formulating with Polysorbate-20.

Good

Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin is Popular synthetic preservative that’s been globally approved for use in cosmetics in up to 1%Protects formulas from broad-spectrum pathogenic activity Backed by decades of research and safety assessments Versatile in that it is compatible in a large range of formulas/pH ranges Considered gentle on skin (incidence of a sensitized reaction to phenoxyethanol is rare)Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic skin-softening agent. Ethylhexylglycerin can also be used as a preservative and carrier/suspending agent that boosts the efficacy of other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. It has been shown to have mild humectant properties leading to improved skin hydration without a sticky feel. As a raw material, ethylhexylglycerin is a pale to colorless liquid. It is formed by a condensation reaction between 2-ethyhexanol (an oil-like ingredient) and glycerin. In 2013, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel deemed ethylhexylglycerin as safe used in up to 8% concentration in rinse-off products and up to 2% in leave-on formulas.

Category
Preservative, Humectant

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, niacinamide, aloe vera, green tea extract, and mild surfactants like coco glucoside for effective and stable formulations.

Avoid with
Strong oxidizing agents (e.g., hydrogen peroxide), high pH ingredients (e.g., sodium hydroxide), and certain essential oils (e.g., tea tree oil) to prevent instability.

Good

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid (also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a desmolytic ingredient, which means it is able to exfoliate by dissolving the bonds that hold the dead cells to skin’s surface. Because salicylic acid is oil soluble, it also has the ability to penetrate into the pore lining and exfoliate inside the pore. This makes it specially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads and whiteheads.Salicylic acid is recognized as an over-the-counter topical acne product by the U.S. FDA, when used in concentrations of 0.5-2%. Even though salicylic acid is best known for its ability to address acne-prone skin concerns, it offers many additional properties that any skin type can benefit from. Case in point, by exfoliating the buildup of dead skin on the surface, it also helps reverse the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone, as well as other visible signs of aging skin.Unlike physical exfoliants (such as a rough facial scrub), salicylic acid offers hydrating properties that enhance the result of smooth, soft skin. Another unique advantage is salicylic acid’s ability to gently soothe aggravated skin thanks to its inherent calming properties.Salicylic acid works most effectively as a leave-on treatment, ideally within a pH range between 3 and 4. Rinse-off salicylic acid cleansers typically have a higher pH, which likely won’t offer much of an exfoliation benefit, not to mention the contact time with skin is very brief - but the salicylic acid may at least offer skin-calming benefits in this form and can be included in amounts as low as 0.5% to achieve this benefit.Research shows using salicylic acid starting at a 1-2% concentration is recommended for regular exfoliation within a skin care routine.

Category
Exfoliant, Humectant

Benefits
Anti-Acne, Anti-Aging, Blackhead Reducing

Good

Lactose

Lactose is a disaccharide composed of galactose and glucose molecules.Lactose is good probiotic as it's a nutrient for Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria. It changes and improves skin microbiota balance providing a healthy, youthful, and refreshed appearance.Lactobacillus consumes lactose and produces Lactic acid, which is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that eliminates dead or dull cells from the surface of the skin and enhances the renewal rate revealing a fresh and radiant complexion.

Category
Humectant, Absorbent, Texture Enhancer,Film-Forming Agent, Polymer

Benefits
Hydration,Anti Aging

Pair with
Hyaluronic acid for enhanced hydration, vitamin C for antioxidant protection, and niacinamide for improved skin tone and texture. These combinations boost moisturizing, anti-aging, and overall skin health benefits in cosmetic formulations.

Avoid with
Strong acids (e.g., hydrochloric acid), strong bases (e.g., sodium hydroxide), high alcohol content, incompatible solvents (e.g., acetone), and high temperatures when formulating with Lactose.

Good

Coco-Glucoside

Coco-Glucoside is a gentle, biodegradable cleansing agent derived from the fatty alcohol of coconut oil and glucose. It effectively lifts dirt and oils from the skin, making it ideal for cosmetics. Available as a cloudy, viscous solution, it is non-irritating and safe, as confirmed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel. Used in concentrations up to 2% in leave-on products and 15% in rinse-off formulations, it provides moderate to high stable foam. Its plant-derived origin and mildness make it a popular choice for eco-friendly and sensitive skin products.

Category
Cleansing Agent

Benefits
Gentle Cleansing Agent

Pair with
Glycerin, shea butter, aloe vera, panthenol, chamomile extract, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and decyl glucoside for gentle and effective cleansing and moisturizing formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), strong acids like salicylic acid, high concentrations of essential oils, and incompatible preservatives like formaldehyde releasers when formulating with coco glucoside.

Good

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide DEA is a cleansing agent known for boosting foam and building viscosity when combined with other surfactants. However, it may contain diethanolamine, potentially forming harmful nitrosamines. Though considered safe in cosmetics, the industry is reducing its use and seeking safer alternatives.

Category
Emulsion Stabilizer, Cleansing Agent, Emulsifier, Surfactant

Benefits
Foam Boosting, Viscosity Controlling

Pair with
Mild surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate, emollients like glycerin, conditioning agents like panthenol, thickening agents like xanthan gum, and preservatives like phenoxyethanol.

Avoid with
Nitrosamine-forming agents like 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane, or sodium nitrate. These combinations can potentially lead to the formation of harmful nitrosamines.

Good

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is a mild, biodegradable cleansing agent known for enhancing foam and improving the gentleness of formulations. It works well with other surfactants and has performance akin to isethionates, another gentle cleaning agent group, making it ideal for mild and effective personal care products.

Category
Surfactant/cleansing, Emulsifier, Viscosity controlling

Pair with
Gentle surfactants like Cocamidopropyl Betaine, conditioning agents like Panthenol, humectants such as Glycerin, and emollients like Shea Butter for a balanced and effective formulation.

Avoid with
Harsh sulfates (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), strong acids (e.g., salicylic acid), formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, and highly alkaline ingredients to prevent potential formulation issues or skin sensitivities.

Good

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a mild surfactant used primarily in skin care products like face and body washes. It is typically a secondary cleansing agent, enhancing the foam and cleansing efficiency of formulas. Derived from coconut or synthesized, it is safe and low-risk for sensitizing skin, provided impurities are controlled. Approved for up to 3% in leave-on products and 4-40% in rinse-off formulas, it is favored for its bubble-stabilizing properties and compatibility with other surfactants. Despite being synthetic, it is highly biodegradable, making it an eco-friendly choice in personal care formulations.

Category
Cleansing Agent, Texture Enhancer

Pair with
Gentle surfactants (e.g., sodium cocoyl isethionate), hydrating humectants (e.g., glycerin), soothing botanical extracts (e.g., chamomile), and effective preservatives (e.g., phenoxyethanol) for balanced formulations.

Avoid with
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate, strong acids like glycolic acid, certain preservatives like formaldehyde releasers, and high concentrations of essential oils.

Good

Acrylates Copolymer

Acrylates Copolymer is commonly used in skin care formulations as a film-forming agent, which literally means it forms a pliable covering on skin when dried, contributing to a soft after feel. In this capacity, it can impart water-resistance to formulations, including sunscreens. It may also add thickening properties, depending on the formula and amount of acrylates copolymer used.
One comparative study looked at whether acrylates copolymer could be beneficial in body washes to reduce skin itchiness.

Category
Texture Enhancer, Film-Forming Agent, Emollient

Benefits
Hydration

Pair with
Moisturizing agents like hyaluronic acid, emollients like glycerin, and stabilizers like tocopherol for enhanced texture, hydration, and stability in skincare formulations.

Avoid with
Environmental concerns, potential skin irritation, and its role in microplastic pollution, impacting marine life and ecosystems.

Good

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is a mild cleansing agent commonly found in personal care products like face washes, bubble baths, and shampoos. Known for enhancing foam and water solubility of other surfactants, it is gentle on the skin. Available as a clear to slightly yellowish liquid, it can be derived from natural plant sources or synthesized in labs. The 2015 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel confirmed its safety at concentrations ranging from 0.06% to 10% in both leave-on and rinse-off products, provided it is formulated to be non-irritating. Ideal for sensitive or baby skin, it is highly recommended for gentle cleansers.

Category
Cleansing Agent

Pair with
Gentle surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine and moisturizing agents such as glycerin or aloe vera, creating effective yet mild cleansers for sensitive skin.

Avoid with
Formulations for sensitive skin, as it can cause irritation. It’s also best to avoid it in sulfate-free products.